A body in motion
by admin on Wednesday, December 29th, 2010 | No Comments
A body in motion
In surfing, the act of catching a wave is a delicate dance of physical forces. A body at rest—say a surfer sitting in the lineup—tends to stay at rest. A body in motion—like a wave rolling in from the sea—tends to stay in motion. To catch a wave you point your surfboard toward shore and paddle. You’re not trying to match the wave’s speed, you’re just trying to break your inertia.
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